Henna
Safety 4/5Lawsonia inermis
Quick Answer
Henna (Lawsonia inermis) benefits hair through lawsone — a dye molecule that bonds to hair proteins and physically strengthens the hair shaft. It adds thickness, reduces frizz, conditions the scalp, and has proven antifungal activity against Malassezia (dandruff). Safety 4/5 — avoid black henna products that contain PPD.
Key Takeaways
- ✓Lawsone bonds to keratin protein, physically strengthening and thickening each strand
- ✓Antifungal properties of henna provide relief from dandruff and scalp itching
- ✓Natural henna (pure Lawsonia inermis) has excellent safety — avoid 'black henna' with PPD
- ✓Conditions scalp by lowering pH, which smoothens the cuticle and adds shine
What is Henna?
Henna (Lawsonia inermis), the Mignonette tree, is a flowering plant native to North Africa and South Asia. In India, henna (Mehndi) has been used for hair colouring, conditioning, and scalp treatment for over 5,000 years. It is unique in that its primary active compound — lawsone — not only colours hair but physically bonds to and strengthens hair proteins.
Active Compounds
- Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) — binds to hair keratin through Michael addition; primary colouring and strengthening compound
- Tannins — astringent polyphenols that tighten scalp tissue and reduce oiliness
- Resin — provides the conditioning and protein-binding properties
- Anthraquinones — antifungal compounds effective against Malassezia
Benefits
Hair Strengthening
Lawsone forms covalent bonds with the amino acid groups in keratin protein, physically integrating into the hair shaft structure. This increases hair shaft diameter (adding thickness to fine hair), improves tensile strength, and reduces porosity. The effect is structural, not cosmetic — lasting until the hair grows out.
Scalp Anti-Dandruff
Henna's anthraquinone compounds have documented antifungal activity against Malassezia species. Combined with the astringent tannins that tone the scalp, henna treats dandruff while conditioning the hair — a dual benefit not available from most anti-dandruff treatments.
Natural Conditioning
The resin and tannin fraction of henna lowers the hair's surface pH, which causes the cuticle to close, resulting in smoother, shinier, and less frizzy hair. This pH effect is similar to an acidic conditioner rinse.
How to Use
- Hair pack: Mix henna powder with warm water (or black tea for deeper colour), add yogurt and amla powder for vitamin C and extra conditioning; apply to hair for 1–3 hours
- Classic pre-shampoo ritual: Apply a henna and reetha combination — henna strengthens while reetha cleanses gently. Both form part of the traditional natural hair care regimen before switching to a shampoo
- Neutral henna: Use colourless henna powder for conditioning without colour change
- In Ayurvedic hair products: Look for Lawsonia inermis leaf extract